To commence, we’ve spent the last few days visiting some new
sites. On Tuesday we went to see a portrait exhibition at Mapfre (a Spanish
insurer) which has a space permanently dedicated to temporary exhibitions. This one traveled from the Paris’s Pompidou
center and consisted of around 10 rooms of portraits created by artists
beginning around 1900 up through 1994 or so.
Artists like Matisse, Picasso, Du Buffet, Francis Bacon, etc. It was interesting as it had both paintings
and sculptures, but no pictures allowed.
On Wednesday, we set our sights on the Royal Academy of Fine
Arts; it has both a school and a museum.
Former students include among others; Sorolla, Picasso and Juan
Gris. The museum has a small but
significant collection and includes artists such as Goya, Zurbaran, Sorolla,
Rubens, and Correggio. It also has
Goya’s cabinet, a collection of many of his engraving plates from several of
his series. On our visit we were also able to see a large
collection of Rodin prints called the Ombres, ‘Shades’, series. Probably around 100 small images dealing with
Dante’s Inferno and related subjects it is there temporarily and was just icing
on the cake.
Thursday, we visited the Palacio Real (Royal Palace) here in
Madrid; it is the third largest palace in Europe after Versailles in France and
the Schoenbrunn palace in Vienna. There
are 24 rooms open to the public and each one is a work of art. It is full of beautiful works of art and
decorated in as lavish a style as any we’ve seen in Versailles or anywhere
else. Also on view are the royal
collection of armor and the royal pharmacy, which Deb particularly loved. We were quite fortunate in that when we
arrived we were able to walk right up and buy tickets to enter. It started getting a bit crowded with
various tour groups coming through but we were able to linger and let them get
past us so we could look at leisure, but I can only imagine what it must be
like in the summer when it’s hot and overrun with tourists. We were extremely surprised when we left and
got a look at the line waiting to get in to the palace and 80% of them must be
Spanish. Walking back to catch the bus
home we got a taste of what the Christmas crush in Madrid can be like. It seemed as if 90 % of Madrid’s 4 million
populations were filling Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, and all the streets
around the old quarter. We walked for blocks and blocks in a seething
mass of lock step flow. I’d compare it
to my clown car observation on the busses.
Plaza Mayor has a Christmas market that was just stuffed with people,
sort of ‘And now K-mart shoppers over in the Christmas aisle’. Just full of temptations for little people,
candy, noise makers, bubble blowers, a little merry-go-round, etc. They have started lighting the decorations
that hang over the streets so in the next few weeks I’ll post some pics of
those too.
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