Thursday, November 29, 2012

November 28th Albayzin or the Souk



Today we spent our final day in Granada visiting the ancient Muslim quarter, called Albayzin.  It sits on a hill across the river valley from the Alhambra, and is much older.  The original fortress was situated on this hill and the old town built up on the hill below it.   It’s a maze of narrow lanes only fit for foot traffic where you have to be on guard against small cars and scooters in those places where they are allowed; but for the most part it’s only foot traffic.   It has a fairly checkered reputation at night but is very safe during the day.   We walked up following a path I had laid out on a map, or so we thought, but it only took about two blocks to be totally off track so we just kept climbing and still came out at the same place.  At the top is the favorite site for viewing the Alhambra across the valley and I must say it is impressive from there. 






However it’s only one of many places where you can get extremely attractive views across to the Alhambra, so I took many of them as the light changed during the day.  The whole hillside is covered with ‘carmens’ which are houses in this quarter and they are stacked up one on top of the other all the way up the hill to the first summit.   Further up the hill above the houses are located many cave dwellings where counter culture and the Roma people (Gypsies) live.   All in all it’s a fascinating part of the city and very appealing.  At the end of the day we walked back to center of town and went to the Capilla Royal, which hold the remains of Ferdinand and Isabella. The Alhambra is where Boabdil, the last Spanish Sultan surrendered the last of Al Andalus to Ferdinand and Isabella and quitted Spain for North Africa. It’s also where Columbus made two pitches for his voyage in search of a western passage to India and we all know how that turned out.  Isabella built the chapel to serve as the mausoleum for all Spanish monarchs but her great-grandson Phillip 2nd bankrupted the nation building El Escorial and monarchs were then buried there.  We’ll be visiting El Escorial in the next couple weeks and report back.
Ferdinand (l) & Isabella (r)

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